Design your own shirt

1. Define the Purpose

Before picking fabrics, we need to know where this shirt is going.

• The Power Business Shirt: Crisp, structured, and meant for a tie.

• The Casual Weekend Button-Down: Softer collar, breathable fabric, shorter hem to be worn untucked.

• The Evening Formal: Wing collar or hidden placket, perhaps a subtle texture like piqué.

2. The Fabric (The Foundation)

The "feel" of the shirt depends entirely on the weave.

• Poplin/Broadcloth: Thin, smooth, and professional. Great for sharp colors.

• Twill: Has a diagonal rib. It’s heavier, softer, and more resistant to wrinkles.

• Oxford: A basketweave that is durable and gets softer over time. Perfect for casual wear.

• Linen: The ultimate choice for summer; breathable, though it embraces the "natural wrinkle."

4. The Fine Details

Bespoke is in the details that mass-market brands skip:

• Placket: Do you want a visible strip of fabric for the buttons (Classic), or a Hidden/Fly Front for a sleek, minimalist look?

• Monogram: Usually placed on the left cuff or the lower ribcage (discreet is better).

• Buttons: Mother-of-pearl is the gold standard for bespoke—they have a natural depth and heat resistance that plastic lacks.

• Back Pleats: "Side pleats" allow for better movement in the shoulders, while a "plain back" creates a slimming, modern silhouette.